Bulgaria... land of the LEVA

Today we had to cross the border into Bulgaria so we can renew our visa. It has been almost three months since landing in Romania and in order to not be fined upon exiting the country next time we had to get out before our initial 90-day period was up.

So we went to Bulgaria, a drive of only one hour away from Bucharest. We arrived in the little border town of Giurgiu and took a train across the border to the city of Ruse. Why drive there so we can take the train? First of all, because our car is still not in our name since we don't have a long-term visa. Secondly, because it costs an arm and a leg to take a car across the border: there are international insurance fees (a.k.a. greed card for car), then there are 'disinfection fees,' and then there are border-crossing fees. And on top of that, add the harrassment from the guards. It wasn't a problem for us, being US citizens, but the border guards seriously questioned all Romanians. "Why are you going?", "How much money do you have?", "When are you coming back?", "Who do you know there?", "What are you bringing back?" - these are all questions suspiciously asked of Romanian citizens. Had these same questions been asked in a professional manner, they would come accross a bit differently. The picture was that of an Old West sherriff taking care of his town. Better yet, as if the border guard is the parent and the travelers are his children. The paternalistic and dictatorial relationship between guards and travelers was so obvious. Unfortunately, everyone seemed to adopt a very submissive attitude, as if not to upset the mighty guards. Is Romania a free country? The country's Constitution states so, but its enforcing authorities are in somewhat of a confusion.

Our road to Ruse, Bulgaria, was uneventful. Though we arrived in Ruse at 14:30, could not leave the train until 15:00 because of passport control. Half an hour later we were standing in front of the return trip train, only to go through the same protocol of being checked. The half hour we had in the train station was spent walking from one end to the other and being 'befriended' by a very friendly Bulgarian who even offered to take us back to Romania by car if we wanted. For a fee of course.

Going to Bulgaria, we crossed the mighty Danube river twice. It is a spectacular view from the suspended bridge, as we see the sun reflecting in the muddy waters. At the point of crossing, the river seemed to be about half a mile across. Pretty huge.

On the way back to Romania, in the train, we witnessed an active case of the plague called CORRUPTION. A few seats away from us, an older lady was returning from Bulgaria with some things purchased there. As the customs officer and the border guard were making their way throuh the wagon, they made a point of stopping in front of every seat. When they realized this person was returning with some items purchased abroad, a discussion ensued. To get away from the other travelers, they continued their little bargaining on the hallway where I happened to be standing due to seating shortage. As this lady was begging and attempting to struck a deal with them, she said a cash number not to their agreement and was immediately asked to reconsider. At one point, the customs officer turned around and walked away, though very smoothly and briefly he motioned a number five in the air to his colleague. Soon after, a deal was struck and the customs people got their bribe. Why did this have to happen, we wondered. Perhaps because most people don't know what the rules and laws are regarding purchases made abroad. And also perhaps the customs people are not at all too friendly to help explain these things either. Nevertheless, it could also be because in the end it is still cheaper to bribe a customs officer than pay an import tax.

-C